Hey wave chaser! Have you ever wondered why ocean waves sometimes wrap around obstacles from seemingly impossible angles? It’s because of wave diffraction! An often overlooked natural phenomenon in oceanology. In this article, you’ll find out what the diffraction of ocean waves is, how it differs from the refraction of ocean waves and whether it’s important for surfers. So grab your coconut water and find out more about the exciting dynamics of ocean waves.
What is wave diffraction and how does it occur?
Physically, diffraction is defined as when waves hit an object or obstacle and change direction or wrap around the object.
In the case of ocean waves, for example, wave diffraction occurs when the wave hits breakwaters or piers, causing a circular expansion of the wave front. Waves with a longer wavelength can deflect more strongly around obstacles and can even change direction with a degree of diffraction of 180°. The diffraction of sea waves can be observed at piers, breakwaters and harbor walls.
Can you surf ocean waves with diffraction?
When the waves hit the obstacle, the energy of the wave is distributed, resulting in a circular expansion (also known as a diffraction pattern) of the wave front. The distribution of energy causes the waves to lose power. These waves are generally not suitable for surfing. Piers and breakwaters are deliberately placed near harbors to protect the harbor or the coast from large waves. However, the waves with a bend could have enough energy for a surf course to gain initial experience on white water waves with high volume foamies, which provide the necessary buoyancy for the weak waves. Better surf quality is provided by ocean waves with a refraction.
The difference between wave refraction and wave diffraction
Refraction and diffraction of ocean waves are both responsible for the change of direction of waves. However, they have different causes:
- Cause of wave refraction: changes in water depth
- Cause of wave diffraction: the wave hits obstacles
The immense loss of energy during wave diffraction does not occur during wave refraction. With this type of wave, the energy is not dispersed but remains – ideal conditions for surfing. With a concave refraction of ocean waves, the energy is concentrated, making the wave even more powerful. Whether a concave or convex refraction of a wave is more suitable for surfing depends on your preferences. Concave waves are usually faster and convex waves slower, which is due to the different energy distribution.
Find out more about the refraction of ocean waves!
Both natural phenomena influence the direction of the waves, but just the wave refraction is crucial for surfers, as it determines the main wave direction and shape along the coast and leaves enough energy for surfing.
