Early history: Polynesia and the spread of surfing
Polynesian cave paintings from the 12th century already showed people gliding across the sea, indicating a long history of this practice. However, references in South America dating from 3000 to 1000 years BC from the pre-Inca period may also point to an even older past. Historians still do not agree on the exact place of origin. The majority tend to recognise Polynesia as the birthplace of surfing. It is possible that the indigenous people brought surfing not only to Hawaii, but also to Peru. However, there is no evidence to support this theory.
Hawaii: The birthplace of modern surfing and Hawaiian surf culture
n Hawaii, surfing was not just a leisure activity, but had a profound spiritual and religious significance. Numerous rituals were practised to ensure the protection and benevolence of the gods. From the careful selection of the tree for the surfboards, to singing and praying for good waves to Kanaloa, the god of the sea. It is almost impossible to determine who “invented” surfing, as it has evolved organically over centuries. In Hawaii, surfing was considered a “sport of kings”, closely linked to ritual practices and a belief in the natural powers of the sea.
Further spread in Europe
The introduction of surfing in Europe is closely linked to the accounts of famous explorers and writers such as James Cook, Mark Twain and Jack London. James Cook was one of the first Europeans to document surfing during his travels in Hawaii in the 1770s, which fascinated European readers. Mark Twain also contributed to the popularisation of surfing by humorously describing his experiences in Hawaii in his book “Roughing It”. Finally, Jack London consolidated interest in surfing in Europe through his vivid descriptions and personal experiences, which he published in the essay “A Royal Sport”.
These reports shaped the European image of surfing as an exotic and exalted sport and led to the founding of the first surf clubs in France and the UK in the early 1920s. These writers played a crucial role in establishing surfing as a respectable sport in the European sporting landscape and documented the first written mention of “surfing” in history.
Duke Kahanamoku - the godfather of surfing
Duke Kahanamoku, often known as “The Duke”, played a central role in the popularisation of surfing far beyond the borders of Hawaii. A talented swimmer and charismatic personality, he conducted demonstrations in California and Australia, which contributed significantly to the global spread of surfing. His efforts popularised surfing in these regions and encouraged the development of surf lifeguards to ensure safety on the water.
